What I think about Flite-metal
Here is the stuff, in case you haven't seen it: http://flitemetal.com
While you are at it, check out my DC-3 page, and be sure to read the application instructions on the flite-metal web page.
I found this page via a search engine when I was trying to find a way around painting the huge DC-3. I don't have the equipment or space to put on a good paint job, so this material seemed like a great choice. I ordered a basic kit, which included two 12x60 inch rolls, and the tools.
I wondered about the $14 shipping charge, but I figured the seller must be using some type of overnight UPS service, since the price was so high and since there were several UPS references on the web page. This shipping policy turned out to be a little bit of a hassle, and certainly changed my mind about the company that distributes the product.
The first indication of trouble came one week after I placed the order. I had recieved an email confirmation of my order, but I had seen no product. I sent the proprietor an email requesting the status, and he told me that he hadn't shipped it out yet because he was waiting on a supply of acrylic burnishing tools.
Now I'm no small business owner, but I find it interesting that after 7 days he had still not sent me any type of note telling me about the delay. I don't mind that the order was delayed because of a tool shortage, since I understand that things like that happen, and I would have been satisfied with a quick note explaining the delay. However, I only recieved correspondence when I asked first.
To say the least, I was dissapointed with the owner's attitude and customer service. It is really too bad, since the product is pretty good stuff. Hopefully someone else (with more customer service motivation) will find a way to cheat the patent and sell the same product.
I set out to try to find a way to protect my previous investment, and to keep from having to patronize a shady business. I scavenged around the house and produced some foil tape, the flite-metal, and a micrometer. First I measured the material and the backing, to check and see if they were the same. If these were identical, I would have bet that they came from the same factory. However, the foil tape was slightly thicker. Next, I pulled off the backing and measured just the foil and adhesive. Within the accuracy of my micrometer (.0001") they were of identical thickness. Throughout the first cowl the panels are mixed, and I am convinced that they are the same. They cut and form like they are the same stuff, and they take polish and rivets the same way.
This was my solution; no more money to a poorly run establishment. I'll use the foil tape when the panels are small enough, and use the flite-metal for the larger panels. At this point I only have 2" tape, but I hope to be able to find it in 4" widths as well. Since I hope to apply the material in scale panels, the 2" tape will suffice for 75% of the model.
As for application techniques, I followed the directions that came with the material. I tried a few practice pieces on balsa, and then dove right in. I made a few wrinkles on my first few, but they are easy to pull off and replace. I find that the burnishing tool is crucial to the application; it works best to roll the large flat portion over the metal during the initial application. This will make wrinkles magically dissapear. As for the complex curves, I find that it works much like monokote; just pull the material around the corners and burnish it along the way. In this case, I find that rubbing the part with the tool works better than rolling. The biggest difference between monokote and aluminum is that the aluminum will tear if you pull too hard. In the interest of longevity, I try to use the ends of the acrylic tool for rubbing, and preserve the flat side for rolling only. To give you an idea of how sensitive the surface is, I was rolling on a panel, and saw a strange little worm-like pattern that kept reappearing. It turned out to be a single strand of fuzz that the tool picked up from the carpet, and each time I rolled over it it left an imprint on the surface.
After the fact, the rivets are an easy addition. I don't even use a straightedge, since freehand works fine. In general, follow the instructions regarding tools; make sure that they are clean and sharp. This material will chew up a #11 blade very quickly, and in order to get clean panels a sharp edge is crucial.
When I get to the stage of applying flitemetal to balsa, I will post plenty of updates. However, as of now I have quite a bit more sanding and filling to do.
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